Tonto National Forest, Arizona

September 30th, 2006

Just about an hour East of Mesa, Arizona, Tonto National Forest spans almost 3 million acres of rugged and spectacularly beautiful country ranging from Saguaro cactus-studded desert to pine-forested mountains.

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I followed the Apache Trail, located on State Route 88, an 80 mile loop travels through, in my opinion, some of the best scenery in Central Arizona.
Most of the trail is unpaved, but provides magnificent views of mountains with dense forests of saguaro, charming historic mining towns with several deep blue lakes along the way.

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I made a quick stop at Tortilla Flat (singular), home of only 6 inhabitants. This stage stop was constructed in 1904 as a staging area for the construction of the Mesa-Roosevelt Road. Couldn t resist its charm, and after driving in the hot Arizona sun, it was a perfect place to stretch my legs and grab a cool beverage.

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Soon after Tortilla Flat, the paved section ends and a narrow gravel road continues further 28 miles above Apache Lake and eventually to the Theodore Roosevelt Dam. The Dam was built of bricks in 1911 and remains the world’s largest masonry dam at almost 300 feet tall.

I continued south, along the shores of Theodore Roosevelt Lake, to Globe. An interesting town, established in 1876 after a large globe-shaped boulder of silver was found nearby. Situated near the midpoint along the Old West Highway, it was a perfect town to grab some dinner and spend the night.

I woke up the next morning and backtracked about 20 miles north to Tonto National Monument established by the Salado (People of the Salt River) Indians in about 1300 AD. This well-preserved Salado Indian cliff dwelling looks down on Lake Roosevelt. As with many other ancient peoples of the Southwest, after living in Tonto Basin for 300 years, the Salado appear to have abandoned their villages suddenly, early in the fifteenth century, for reasons which are not known.

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One of the two dwellings (the Lower Ruin) can be reached by a paved, half mile self-guided trail which leads from the visitor center/museum quite steeply up the side of a hill; along this well groomed path you ll see native animals and plants - the area is especially abundant in sagauro and cholla cacti.

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The Lower Cliff Dwelling is not just old stones, sticks, and mortar. It is the skeleton of a small village  a place where people were born and died, lived and worked.
The highlight for me was to stand in the middle of this 700 year old ruin, imagining the Salado people busy with there lives, cooking, laughing and a place were children played, grew up, loved and were loved. A must see for anyone passing through!

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Note: the Upper Ruins are not open year around to guest, contact the Tonto National Park Service for operating hours and seasons

Embera’ Community, Panama

August 16th, 2006

Recently I had the great fortune to visit the Embera  community in the Darien jungle of Panama. I had no idea how they would touch my heart and how that single encounter would leave me with wonderful lifetime memories.

I reached their village by zodiac and was greeted by the most beautiful girls and boys dressed in traditional garb. The boys in their loincloths, and the girls in their brightly colored skirts called palomas. Their bodies were painted in unique designs using a temporary dye from the jagua, a very important fruit in their lives. Oh yes, and smiles, lots of smiles.

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They invited us to their Casa Communal, where they performed a variety of dances and then encouraged us to participate as well. We were able to support the culture by purchasing some of their beautiful crafts. It is believed that they were the original basket weavers and wood carvers of their region.

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We spent the greater part of the day there, them not speaking English and us not speaking their native tongue, but I found we communicated better than some couples that have been married for years.

I am grateful to have my photos of these beautiful people. Each time I look at them, it takes me back to their wonderful village and their simple, but fulfilling life. They will never know the gracious gift they gave to me and the other travelers with me, the gift of lifetime memories.

If you are ever in Central America, it is a must see!

Cumberland Island, Georgia

July 31st, 2006

WOW! All I can say is “wow.” I had no idea the surprise that was in store for me, to see such a beautiful place that I didn’t even know existed, Cumberland Island, Georgia.

Today the National Park Service protects the island for visitors to enjoy, but it once was a grand plantation for Lucy and Thomas Carnegie in the late 18th century, younger brother of steel magnate, Andrew Carnegie.
To walk these beautiful grounds with our tour guide and hear the stories of this family was such a treat. Although the ruins and outbuildings are all that remain of this once magnificent estate, it is wonderful to use your imagination and dream of the incredible “rich and famous” life-style of this family.

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In 1972 it was declared a national park. With its landscape of unspoiled beaches, sand dunes and salt marshes, my camera didn’t stop clicking from the moment I arrived. Wild horses, armadillos, and many species of birds also inhabit the island. Visitors enjoyed taking off their shoes and strolling down the white sandy beach. I will forever remember Cumberland Island -

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Attached photos: the remains of the ruins of Lucy & Thomas Carnegie mansion, a beautiful oak tree dripping with Spanish moss, visitors enjoying a walk on the beach, and an armadillo foraging for his next meal.

Palouse, Washington

July 24th, 2006

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It was my goal this past New Years to get out and see Washington State. Well Palouse, Washington was on the list. I planned to drive over from Seattle to capture, what I have seen in other images, the beautiful wheat fields close to harvest time, mid to late July.

Palouse is in close proximity to Pullman, Washington, probably the most well known town in Whitman County, home of Washington State University Cougars.

I drove into Palouse late, after dark, so I got a hotel room, and set the alarm for sunrise. At 4:30a.m. I grabbed my gear and headed out to capture my rolling hills I have thought about so often. I drove up to Steptoe Butte, constructed of quartzite, towering 3600 feet over the surrounding terrain – I figured this was the spot. When I reached the top, I was in disbelief of the beautiful quilted hills that surrounded this butte. I had never seen anything like it…and in my own state, who knew?

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Most all of the neighboring towns were a sight to be seen as well. Linking these charming towns were golden, rolling hills of wheat that stretched on for miles. A favorite, and certainly photographic scene was found in Uniontown. A nationally known barn, because of a wonderfully constructed fence of over 1000 wagon wheels, was waiting to be shot by yet another visitor.
If you’re into photography, or just love to drive the byways of America’s small towns, Whitman County in Washington is a must see!

Stay Bellie, Stay!

July 19th, 2006

A weekend at beautiful Whidbey Island Washington. Nothing like spending some time on Puget Sound when Washington heats up to 85+ degrees. Packed up the cooler, steaks and headed to a Beach House my in-laws had rented for the week. One of the biggest highlights is playing on the beach at low tide with the family, the dog and my camera.

Stay Bellie, Stay

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Blog of Travel Photographer Julie Smith.

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